What Are Sump Pump Installations

The arrival of spring brings with it pleasant weather, the blossoming of flowers, and, of course, rain. Unfortunately, all of this water has to go somewhere, and unfortunately for you, that somewhere is usually your basement, where it will cause a nightmare of flooding if it gets in there. You can avoid going through this ordeal altogether by installing the appropriate sump pump in your home and save yourself thousands of dollars in repair costs that are associated with flood damage.

What are the various kinds of sump pumps that are available?

There are two primary varieties of sump pumps that are typically found in residential homes. Unlike pedestal pumps, which have their motors resting above the water, submersible pumps are completely hidden away in the sump pit. Pedestal pumps, on the other hand, are only partially concealed. Sump pumps that are mounted on pedestals are typically less expensive than submersible models, and they are also simpler to repair and maintain. However, submersible pumps are less audible, making them a preferable option for places where people are living.

What kind of material is most suitable for a sump pump?

Cast iron is the most durable material, but it has a propensity to overheat and can begin to rust after approximately ten years. We think it’s a good option, but in terms of the material that makes up your sump pump, it’s not the best. From the point of view of a plumber, baffled aluminum is by far the superior option.

Is it better to have one made of cast iron or stainless steel?

Both cast iron and stainless steel have anti-corrosion properties, but cast iron maximizes its cooling ability and does a better job of distributing the heat produced by the motor. A sump pump’s interior is equally as important as its exterior.

How does one go about installing a sump pump that is powered by water?

Above the primary sump pump, secure two cleats made of 2×3 lumber measuring three feet in length and using screws measuring three inches in diameter. The mounting hardware that was provided should be used to secure the backup sump pump to the 2×3 cleats. Make sure the float on the backup pump is set to a height that is just slightly higher than the height of the primary pump. After that, make a small cut in a nearby cold-water line and thread a length of copper pipe with a diameter of three-quarters of an inch down to the control valve on the backup sump pump. To successfully solder each joint, a propane torch and lead-free solder are required. Turn off the primary sump pump by unplugging it. The next step is to use a slotted screwdriver to loosen the band clamp on the check valve. This will allow water to be drained from the existing discharge pipe. Make a cut in the discharge pipe that is currently leading from the primary sump pump, and then run a new discharge pipe made of PVC that has a diameter of 112 inches from the backup pump. After replacing the check valve on the backup pump with a new one, clean the plastic pipe and fittings with PVC pipe primer and cement, and then solvent-weld them together to complete the assembly. After dismantling the backflow preventer, open the water valve and pour any solder or flux that may be present into a container. After putting water in the sump pit and turning on the primary pump, you should wait for it to start pumping. In order to create the illusion that water is rising in the sump pit, unplug the primary pump and raise the float on the backup pump by hand. When the float reaches the appropriate level, the backup pump will turn on and drain the pit of any water that may have collected there.

How long do sump pumps that are powered by water typically last?

It can continue to function for over 20 years. You only need to test it twice a year by lifting the float or unplugging your electric pump. There is no need to replace any of the components.